Dinner was at Thrir Frakkar, which our landlady translated as Three Friends but Lonely Planet called it Three Overcoats. We tried whale sashimi and smoked puffin. I mean we ate smoked puffin - which LS thought tasted a bit like liver. I had wild guillemot for the main. LS thought that tasted like liver too.
The water was hot and the colour of early morning sky. We waded to the silica mud crates and painted our faces white with the mud like everyone else. The wooden crates felt like ivory.
LS: If I can put the mud on my face everyday, I also can be as smooth as this wood.
Back in Reykjavik, we ate at Seabarrons. LS said the grilled whale tasted like liver.
Watching whales and eating shark
Returning from the hot river at Hveragerdi, we made breakfast before sleeping for two hours, then woke and went whale watching. From our boat, the Minkes were the size of a thumbnail and puffins as large as this P.
We slept until dinner time then opened the packet of hakarl - fermented shark - to have with vodka and whiskey. It was foul. Our upstairs neighbour, an Icelander, came to chat with us. He did not touch the shark.
We invited Peter, a Canadian from the other apartment, to try.
Peter: I'm planning to get lucky later. Shark breath isn't going to get me there.
He fetched his friend, Khon, whose face shrivelled into a prune as he took some. He went back in to fetch another friend.
Khon: I don't want to die alone.